500 lift will probably be the max they can handle. Pay attention to the valvesprings on those heads as others have suggested.anything close to. 050 is just fine and will work with power brakes as well. On a street 350, I something in the mid 220's at. Last, if you get too wild on the cam's duration, you'll need to get a higher stall converter and runs deeper rear gears. Also, you should try to figure out what your compression ratio will be. If you don't want to tear down the shortblock, I'd at least replace all the gaskets/seals you possibly can before you stab it in your car.Īre you going to run power brakes or no? That will influence your cam selection. 500'.ĭo you know how many miles are on the short block? If there are any leaks from the oil pan or front crankshaft seal, now is the time to fix them. 500' because anything bigger kills intake vacuum at idle and the stock valve springs usually don't handle a cam with a lift over.

After years of building engines, I found out (the hard way) to use a cam no bigger than a 280 degree of advertised duration and lift less than. The BIGGEST mistake people make is to over cam a street engine. 030' over pistons with rings just in case I want to bore an engine block. 030' over Speed Pro Hypereutic pistons and moly rings plus a set of stock bore moly rings. I usualy buy the complete engine rebuild kit with. Get a new stock oil pump & pickup, brass freeze plugs, new timing chain gear set, and a new cam & lifters. I recommend that you buy a re-ring re-bearing kit from Northern Auto Parts. Although you now have a 350 SBC short block that ran, putting new heads on it could be a gamble because the new heads will raise the compression back to original which might lead to piston ring failure and/or rod and/or main bearing failure.

Best sounding cam for 350